Crossing a large bergschrund, we actually stood below it but didn't believe it, chosing to traverse slowly east on tricky ground. Now we traversed glacial slopes looking for our ice way. We dropped down on the north side while they climbed the rocky ridge. Georg heads off alone to tag the remote Tsessette summit.ģ am found us leading a train of climbers up to a high col. A short but steep walk to the hut finally tired us out, and we admired the rocky side of the Gran Combin, steaming above in remnant clouds like Vesuvius. We riffed on an Italian tunnel under Velon, and were generally silly. We joked about Martigny as a steampunk industrial hub of concentrated decay, extracting value from it's hinterland in the meanest possible ways. We stopped to rest in a sheep-filled meadow and admired Monte Velon on the other side of the valley, a peak that marks the border with Italy. It had rained in this valley, but clouds were lifting to reveal broad green slopes that were restful after the Aiguilles. The hike to the Valsorey Hut was pretty long, but pleasant. I on the other hand found an exciting new backpack, the Black Diamond Epic, which allowed me to store crampons outside among other features. They all seemed to be strange brands, and sat very high on the head "mushroom-like." I didn't blame him for sticking with his old helmet. Surprisingly, we were unable to find a decent helmet in the Chamonix valley. Rockfall on the Hochferner in May had dislodged the inner styrofoam of his helmet, making it a two-piece unit. We stopped at a climbing store to try and buy a helmet for him. There was an enticing ice route, the Northwest Face, and descent via a nearby ridge of rock. So we looked east, and found an island of sun around the Gran Combin. It was raining outside the Belvedere! That won't do. Showered and restored, we asked the next logical question: what about the weather. There are about 25 of them for this segment. I took a different approach with this (very) long trip report. If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.Georg approaches the Valsorey HutPART II. Normal gear for crossing glaciers + a handful of nuts and camming devices. it is important to keep high on the traverse, above the snow fields, because otherwise you have to cross some icy couloirs which tend to channel stones and rocks. From the col you then traverse across and down the South face to the glacier where you started. To reach this head directly down the scree to the col on a route that at times resembles a path. Return to the hut the same way, or via the Plateau that leads to the Col du Sonedon. From the summit of the Grand Combin de Valsorey you can get to the obvious main summit of the Grand Combin in 40mins, allowing 20 mins for the return. Most parties do a combination of the two options.įrom last step a simple ridge leads to the summit which is marked by a wooden cross. Alternatively, one can bypass all of the difficulties on the right by traversing on the South West Face however this is over difficult ground with loose scree slopes. There are moves of II and III, but nothing harder than this. It is possible to climb up on the ridge turning the difficulties on either side. Alternatively continue to the morraine and scree that lies to the right of the couloir and ascend this - there is a rough path all the way to the col.įrom the col there are three rock steps. Branch off left up the obvious couloir that leads to the col du Meitein. Walk up the rocky moraine to the Meitein glacier and move right across it in the direction of the Col du Sonadon. (I refered to the Alpine Club Valias Alps West guide book, Lindsay Griffin, when writing this.)įrom the hut an early start is advisable. The walk to the hut is signposted from Bourg St. Start from the Valsorey hut (3030m, SAC, serves food, tel: 027 787 11 22).
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